Sola Beach, Norway
We are in our third summer in Stavanger and this one couldn't be more different than the previous two. (Third! Can you believe it?) In fact, I think we're breaking records around here. The last two summers were cool hovering between 15 and 18 degrees most days with high winds and rain making frequent appearances. There were a couple of days that reached into the mid-twenties but with the accompanying chilly wind off the North Sea, it never actually felt hot.
This summer, by contrast, has felt hot. Every day the temperature is peaking between the mid and high twenties with an occasional slight breeze although, comparatively, quite calm. Our long hours of sunlight means it doesn't even start cooling off until 10 pm. For the first time ever, I'm venturing out without packing along a cardigan or a jacket. The curtains are drawn almost all day to block out the sun and all housework has taken a backseat as I don't dare turn on an appliance. We're going through a steady stream of frozen treats and fruit smoothies and I've been scrounging through my wardrobe to find clothes that fit (sort of) and keep me cool. (Funny enough, while home and shopping for maternity clothes, I told sales associates I didn't want anything too summery as it just wouldn't get worn in Norway. I'm kicking myself now.) The other day, I lounged inside in my bikini and have half-heartedly joked that I might set up a lawn chair in our underground parking, easily the coolest place in the building. I never would have thought I'd be yearning for air conditioning in Stavanger, yet here I am, spending an extra minute or two in front of the open refrigerator door. But, I will not complain. Past Novembers with mere moments of sunshine lurk not far in my memory and unfortunately, not far in the future.
July is a typically quiet month in Norway. Tourism is at it's peak but the Norwegians are no where to be found. Known as 'fellesferie,' the month of July marks the time where everyone is on holidays. Norwegians are encouraged to take their summer vacation time (several weeks at a time) at once leaving offices bare and businesses closed. Our local cafe is shut for the month; my seamstress has a note on the door informing customers they'll be back at the end of July; even some banks are closed. Our neighbourhood practically resembles a ghost town and Joe's commute to the office is marked without traffic and plenty of parking spaces. Those that did stick around Stavanger have been taking advantage of the high temperatures. Every day I watch groups of people, children and adults alike, who wander down to the pier below our building to dive into the cool water of the fjord. I'll hear the first attendants well before noon and have been woken up by the last well after midnight.
This past weekend, we wandered over to Sola Beach for an afternoon. While we've visited several times before, we've never actually laid out at the beach. Even on sunny, warm days, the wind batters us and after watching the kite surfers, we usually retreat. This time, the beach was packed and we laid out our towels with everyone else both of us returning home with a slight sunburn as our normally unexposed skin has lost any immunity it once had to the sun's rays.
While the sweat might be pooling behind my knees and as I make a third trip to the freezer for a popsicle, I'll relish this unseasonably warm, Norwegian summer as it very well could be our last.
I had no idea Norway took its holidays in July! I thought most of Europe did in August, although maybe that's just a southern European thing?
ReplyDeleteGlad Norway is putting on a show for you this summer, although not ideal with the bebe in tow. Keep cool!
A little less ideal packing the extra cargo but I'll take what I can get!
Delete...Hey, who knows--with climate change, you'll probably have more unseasonably warm summers in Norway!!...
ReplyDeleteBest,
Betty J. Ogburn
I've just found your blog recently and am glad I have :) I've never been to Norway.
ReplyDeleteThanks for stopping by!
DeleteWow! Enjoy the unseasonably hot weather while you can... it's sort of fun once in awhile. It sounds like the summer we had last year (4 straight weeks of 32 C temps and no rain) while this summer it's a little warm (26ish) but thunder-stormy everyday.
ReplyDeleteI am a bit surprised that entire businesses close for most of the month-- that must be so strange.
I've been hoping for thunderstorms at night. That's common where I'm from in Canada and it's such a great way to cool down from the day. Alas, none yet :(
DeleteAnd yes, July is a little strange around here - it's certainly a slower pace!
Haha, mid-high 20s is not my idea of hot, but it's all relative I guess. I feel like it's been rather cool here in Germany actually!
ReplyDeletebelle + compass
It certainly is relative - when we arrived 2 years ago in Norway from Gabon, our teeth were literally chattering at 20 degrees. Prior to that, living in Canada, I didn't think -20 was all that cold in the winter.
DeleteI thought of mid-20s and actually shivered. I've clearly been in the Caribbean too long and someone should take away my Canadian passport!
ReplyDeleteWhen it gets face-melting hot here (like 44-45 degrees with 100% humidity) I try and remember walking in the winter in Canada at night.. you know the nights where it's snowing, and your feet crunch along and squeak on the new snow, and your thighs are really cold cause all they have on them are jeans and nothing else? Now that I haven't experienced that in almost 4 years I am starting to forget, but I bet you can do it :)
It's quite amazing how our bodies adjust! When we arrived here, we were the same.
DeleteBut the snow - haven't had much of that. It's been 4.5 years since I've had a 'real' Canadian-like winter. I can, however, feel that lovely feeling of crisp, clean air in my lungs on a brisk morning. It's what I missed most while on the equator!
What a perfect description of what everyone is feeling now in Norway ! Haha! It is.. so.. hot! It is definitely a love/hate relationship for me with this heat!
ReplyDeleteYes, it feels difficult when there aren't many places one can go to cool down! Looks like things are going to cool off next week - we'll probably be wishing for the heat not long after ;)
DeleteI just wanted to say that I followed a link over here from A Practical Wedding. I am from the US originally, but lived in Stavanger for a few years (and have been to Sola beach many times) and now live in Canada. Can't wait to check out the rest of your blog! :)
ReplyDeleteThanks for stopping by!
Deleteoh fun - a good day at the beach! your last? do you have an idea when/where to next? (please say san francisco. please say san francisco!)
ReplyDeleteOur contracts are always initially for 3 years. We've completed 2 already so it's just a matter of time. Unfortunately, there is almost no chance of us ending up in SF :(
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